dragging the shutter slow enough to get motion blur would also make up for any difference in light loss. would require some sort of stabilization though. if you don't have a tri/monopod, you can set it on the ground and use some rocks or sticks (you're near a lake) to prop up the lens. also, i'd suggest using a 1 second shutter release delay to not have any bounce from you pressing the buttons on such a slow shutter.
also, digital cameras could just compensate slower f-stop with higher ISO if necessary
For film, I'd go with "cloudy 11" and lose a stop or two of shutter speed, but I haven't shot film in thirty years, so who knows if I'm full of it or not.
(And thank you all for bringing the back half of the joke in such inimitable style!)
Only film I ever shot was disposable 35mm and the older 110mm. Nothing to be adjusted to get your Cloudy 11 or Sunny 16. The one I do use in dslr world is Rule of 500 for astro stuffs. I'd say now to just ensure shooting RAW so you can adjust the white balance in post. Camera defaults for cloudy are just too cool to me.
(I'm never one to shy away from answering obvious rhetorical questions in a joke)
I don't know about all that. It's not like shooting in the dark at ISO 32000. It's a sunny day that you've stopped the aperture down a couple of stops. Which means you're probably already shooting at low ISO100. Cameras can easily push to ISO800 with no noise being introduced. Newer sensors can easily go higher than that. Hell, my BMD camera's base ISO is 1600.
So I'm just going to come out and say claiming that pushing the ISO and introducing noise during a daytime (albeit cloudy) shoot and pushing the ISO a few stops to counter stopping down is fake news and scaremongering.
also, digital cameras could just compensate slower f-stop with higher ISO if necessary