This is exactly right. We must eat Sushi as it was originally eaten. Any other method is blasphemy. Just like Hamburgers should only be eaten if passed through a drive-thru window and Croissants eaten under a waning crescent moon.
I don't think he was talking about a prescriptivist's "correct" way to eat the food. I believe it was intended to be a review of the interesting dining experience at this place.
Less "this is how it should be eaten" and more "I tried eating at this place where the chef insists I follow his rules and I kinda liked it".
This is exactly how I read it. More about the experience and atmosphere the chef is working hard to provide than some hard rules about how to eat sushi. You aren't going to see anything close what the chef provides in a sushi chain store, for example.
I once read an article extensively discussing the distinction between eating spaghetti with a spoon to assist vs without. Apparently those who use spoons are treacherous heathens, utterly uncivilized.
I eat a pizza once at a place where the owner was really into the Right Way of eating pizza; he got irritated when I asked for some ketchup and explained to me that it's blasphemy, and I should use olive oil instead. I did, and I really liked it (now I use both).
Guidelines and rules are not the same thing, and I believe the exact text was to avoid gratuitous negativity. I don't think that comment was gratuitous.
I not just break deliberately each of those rules - I do it proudly. I take time, love high-ceiling rooms, I chit chat, I prefer it for dinner ... I even use Xylitol to sweeten the sushi rice!
